Saturday, 29 August 2009

What To Do With All the Crops

As I have said previously in my Blog Gordon Road Allotment, this year has been a bumper year for all sorts of vegetables so what to do with them and how to use up the glut other than giving them away.  So maybe this is a good time to think of some interesting and exciting recipes.  I am very lucky to have been born into a family of foodies, in addition to which I have a Mediterranean background.  I was brought up on courgettes, tomatoes, aubergines and peppers.  These are all now readily available in British supermarkets and it may seem strange to say this in 2009 but I was born at the end of the 1940s and in the 1950s these vegetables were not readily available in the shops.  When my grandmother came to visit us from her home in North Africa she would fill the suitcase with vegetables not clothes, so that my mother would be able to have a taste of her home.  I am sure you would not be allowed to do this these days; however, the rules were laxer then.



Most recipes from this part of the Mediterranean involve onions and/or garlic.  My grandmother would only cook with one or the other in a dish; she would always say it was not correct to use both in the same dish.  The following are very simple but tasty recipes that use onion rather than garlic:

Green Beans and Tomatoes

·         1kg Runner beans or wide French beans
·         2 large onions
·         1 tin chopped tomatoes or 500g fresh tomatoes skinned chopped and deseeded
·         2 – 3 tbsp sunflower oil
·         Salt and freshly ground black pepper
·         2 -3 bay leaves
String the beans and cut into 5 cm lengths
Peel and chop onions coarsely
Add oil to medium saucepan
Place beans, onions, tomatoes, salt, pepper and bay leaves into the pan
Bring to the boil and then simmer slowly until very well cooked – approximately 30minutes
Serve as an accompanying vegetable to meat or fish or eat on its own with a slice of good bread; it may also be used as a pasta sauce.

Courgettes and Chickpeas

·         1kg courgettes
·         2 large onions
·         1 tin chickpeas washed and drained
·         2 sachets of powdered saffron or a large pinch of saffron stamens
·         Salt and freshly ground black pepper
·         2-3 bay leaves
·         2 – 3 tbsp sunflower oil
Cut courgettes into even sized pieces about 1 ½ cm
Peel and chop onions coarsely
Add oil to medium saucepan
Place courgettes, onion, chickpeas, saffron, salt, pepper and bay leaves into saucepan and simmer gently for 20 – 30 minutes until cooked
This is good hot with couscous or bread, or to accompany meat or chicken.

In North Africa the meal always commences with kemias or hors d’oeuvres, these may be as simple as olives and cornichon, but often consist of more elaborate prepared dishes.  I describe here a couple of my favourites that will be useful in using up gluts of tomatoes and peppers.  The following are always served as hors d’oeuvres and use garlic alone:

Grilled Red Bell Pepper and Tomato Salad

·         Two red bell peppers
·         250gm red tomatoes
·         1large clove garlic
·         3 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
·         1 tbsp Red wine  vinegar
·         Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grill bell peppers to blacken and remove the skin
Cut in half lengthways and remove the seeds and the pith then cut into approx 1 ½ cm square pieces
Scald tomatoes in boiling water to remove the skin, quarter the tomatoes and deseed and cut quarters into 1 ½ cm pieces
Combine the prepared peppers and tomatoes in a salad bowl
Peel and finely chop garlic.  This is important; the garlic should not be crushed
Combine oil vinegar salt pepper and garlic and pour over the prepared peppers and tomatoes
Leave to macerate for 30 minutes at room temperature
Serve as a starter with bread

Choukchoukah

·         1kg red bell peppers (or other colours if red are not available)
·         1 chilli pepper (optional)
·         1kg ripe tomatoes or 2 tins chopped tomatoes
·         3-4 fat cloves garlic
·         3-4 tbsp sunflower oil
·         Salt and freshly ground pepper
Grill all peppers to cook and blacken and remove the skin
Deseed and chop the grilled peppers
If using fresh tomatoes, scald in boiling water to remove the skin and deseed
Peel and slice garlic finely
Heat oil in a medium saucepan
Gently fry garlic until rosy but not burnt
Add chopped tomatoes salt and pepper and cook gently until reduced by one third
Add the chopped peppers and continue to cook gently until reduced by half
Stir frequently during the cooking process; take care not to burn the choukchoukah
The mixture should resemble a thick jam
Adjust the seasoning to taste
Allow to cool before serving with slices of thick bread
I hope you enjoy my family recipes.

Monday, 10 August 2009

Wedding Cake

Last Christmas I made three Christmas cakes using variations on Nigella's chocolate and prune cake. I am not that fond of coffee liqueur, so I substituted Cointreau, which had the added advantage of not having to go out and buy it as I have a very large bottle at home. It also goes well with the other ingredients as oranges are used in the recipe. This was a huge success with all the family who declared it the best Christmas cake ever. My cousin and her boyfriend were round during the Festive season and were offered some. When they tried it they asked me to make them their Wedding cake; as this was to take place in August I wasn't sure that they were serious about it. Anyway about a month ago my cousin reminded me that they still wanted me to make their cake and was I still willing to do it. I said that that would be my Wedding present to them.


The cakes I 'd made for Christmas were round and decorated with orange and lemon jellies and chocolate buttons. I thought that a square cake would be more suitable for a Wedding. As my Christmas cakes were not conventionally iced, as I am not particularly fond of traditional icing, I said that did not want to make an iced Wedding cake. My cousin said that was exactly her choice too and that this would be perfectly fine. I glazed them with apricot jam, another diversion from the Nigella recipe, giving them a very attractive gloss, as you can see below in the half decorated cake.



I racked my brains and scoured all the shops in London to find a way of decorating this cake. I went up to Selfridges, which always used to have everything you needed. The Food Hall was famous for having the most wonderful selection. No more! It is a sad shadow of its former glory. I was looking for high quality sugared almonds in white and silver; these were always available in the past. It now appears that they are not.

I did find dragees and bought a variety of different types and eventually used chocolate marbled almonds. I found some yoghurt coated strawberry sweets in Cranberry; a chain of stalls at the mainline stations in London, selling sweets, dried fruits and nuts. The white chocolate hearts were from John Lewis, Oxford Street, and the chocolate tiles that surround the cake were made from chocolate that I 'd bought in France on holiday this year. I melted the chocolate and spread it out thinly on baking parchment allowing it to cool and set completely before cutting it up into suitable pieces to stick round the sides of the cake using icing as "glue" to anchor the chocolate in place.


I made two cakes as my cousin said it was for 30 people and I wasn't sure how far one cake would go. In the event the pieces of cake served were very small and I doubt if one cake was used at the Wedding party itself.

The cakes are displayed side by side as I'd intended.
The prunes were from Agen in France and my cousin is from Agen so there was a considerable amount of symbolic importance to this. Everyone was very complimentary about the cake and I felt very happy that this had been such a success.